How to Make an Epoxy River Table: A Beginner's Guide to Deep Pour Resin
A river table fills the gap between two timber slabs with a deep, clear or tinted pour of epoxy. This guide covers which resin to use, how much you need, how to build the mould, how to pour in layers, and how to finish the table, with real numbers for the resin, the pours and the cure.
The Quick Answer
To make an epoxy river table, use a deep pour epoxy such as River Resin Deep Cast Epoxy, not a table top coating resin. Set your slabs in a sealed, level mould and seal the live edges. Mix the resin 2:1 by volume and pour 15–50 mm per layer. Cure it at a constant 25 °C. It is touch dry in about 2 days, which is when you pour the next layer. Allow a further 2 days before sanding. To work out how much resin you need, multiply length × average width × depth in centimetres, then divide by 1,000 for litres.
| River Resin at a glance | |
|---|---|
| Mix ratio | 2 parts resin (A) to 1 part hardener (B) by volume |
| Pour depth | 15–50 mm per pour |
| Working time | About 2 hours at 25 °C |
| Batch size | Up to 16 L per mix |
| Next layer | When touch dry, in about 2 days |
| Before sanding | A further 2 days |
| Cure temperature | A constant 25 °C (minimum 20 °C) |
| Heat resistance | Up to 80 °C once cured |
| Kit sizes | 750 mL to 150 L |
Deep Pour Epoxy vs Table Top Epoxy
The most common mistake our customers make is using the wrong resin. Table top resin, also called coating or top coat resin, is made to level out in a thin 1–2 mm coat. Poured deep into a river, it builds up heat as it cures and can crack or overheat. Deep pour epoxy is made for thick pours. It cures with low heat (a low exotherm), so it can fill a deep channel safely.
| Deep pour (River Resin) | Table top coating resin | |
|---|---|---|
| Job | Filling the river, voids and deep castings | A clear top coat over timber |
| Thickness | 15–50 mm per pour | 1–2 mm per coat |
| Working time | About 2 hours at 25 °C | About 30–40 minutes at 25 °C |
| If poured deep | Made for it, at 15–50 mm per layer | Can crack or overheat |
You can use both on one table. Pour the river with River Resin, then, if you want a glossy surface, finish the whole top with a coating resin. Our table top guide explains coating step by step.
What You Need
- Timber slabs: two live-edge slabs, dry and flattened, cut to length.
- Deep pour resin: River Resin Deep Cast Epoxy, sized using the formula and table below.
- Edge sealer: Solid Cast 606 Clear Wood Epoxy to seal the live edges and fill knots and cracks up to 15 mm.
- A mould: a flat, rigid base with sides, sealed so the resin can't leak or stick.
- Mixing gear: straight-sided containers or an open pail, and a paint mixer on a drill. See our resin accessories.
- Colour (optional): epoxy pigment pastes or mica powder.
- Protection: gloves, safety glasses and good ventilation.
- Finishing: a belt sander, an orbital sander and sandpaper from 80 to 1500 grit.
How Much Resin Do You Need?
Measure the river channel, not the whole table. Multiply length × average width × depth in centimetres, then divide by 1,000 to get litres.
Example: a river 180 cm long, 15 cm wide on average and 4 cm deep is 180 × 15 × 4 = 10,800 cm³, or about 10.8 litres of mixed resin. Allow a little extra for the mould edges and any resin the timber soaks up.
| Your river (length × width × depth) | Resin needed | Suggested kit |
|---|---|---|
| Serving board or small river: 40 × 8 × 2 cm | About 0.6 L | 750 mL Beginner Kit |
| Side table: 60 × 10 × 2.5 cm | About 1.5 L | 3L Kit (allows extra) |
| Coffee table: 100 × 12 × 3 cm | About 3.6 L | 6L Kit |
| Dining table: 180 × 15 × 4 cm | About 10.8 L | 15L Kit |
| Large dining table: 240 × 25 × 5 cm, poured as two 2.5 cm layers | About 30 L (two mixes of about 15 L) | 30L Kit, or the 60L Kit to allow extra |
Bigger projects, such as benchtops or several tables, may suit the 90L or 150L kits. You can mix up to 16 L at a time, so split bigger rivers into layers.
How to Make a River Table, Step by Step
Prepare the timber
Use dry, flattened slabs cut to your final length. Remove loose bark, dust and dirt from the live edges, then lay the slabs out with the river gap you want.
Build a sealed, level mould
Build a box on a flat, rigid base that fits your slabs. Seal every seam so nothing can leak, and line the inside with a non-stick surface so the resin doesn't bond to the mould. Clamp or weigh the slabs down so they can't float or move. Then level the mould in both directions and check every seam again before you mix anything.
Seal the live edges
Brush a liberal coat of Solid Cast 606 Clear Wood Epoxy over the natural wood edges, and fill any knots or cracks with it too. This stops air rising out of the timber and leaving bubbles in the river while the deep pour slowly thickens. Let the seal coat cure for 24 to 48 hours before the main pour.
Warm, measure and mix
Make sure the resin and hardener are warm, not cold, before use for the best clarity. Measure 2 parts Part A to 1 part Part B by volume into a straight-sided container, or an open pail for batches of up to 16 litres. Mix with a paint mixer on a drill at slow speed for several minutes, until it's evenly clear. To colour the river, add pigment paste (no more than 5% of the mix) or mica powder.
Pour 15–50 mm at a time
Pour from a few centimetres above the channel and let the resin flow along it. After 5 minutes, top up if needed. Keep each pour between 15 and 50 mm, which keeps the curing heat at a safe level.
Add more layers in the touch-dry window
For a river deeper than 50 mm, pour in layers. Each layer is touch dry in about 2 days. Pour the next layer then, so the layers chemically bond together.
Cure at 25 °C
Leave the table undisturbed at a constant 25 °C, and never below 20 °C. After the final layer is touch dry, allow a further 2 days before sanding.
Flatten, sand and finish
Cut back with a belt sander at 80 grit, then an orbital sander from 80 through to 320 grit. Then wet sand at 500, 800 and 1500 grit for extra clarity. Then finish with wood oil or polish, or a final coat of coating resin. Our polishing guide covers this in detail.
Shop River Resin →Extra Tips for a Better River Table
Use well-dried timber
Damp timber can cause cloudy patches, bubbles and movement as it dries. Use kiln-dried or well-seasoned slabs. Aim for a moisture content of less than 10%, and check a few spots on each slab with a timber moisture meter.
Test the mould for leaks
Build the mould from a smooth material that resin won't stick to, such as melamine board, and seal every seam and corner with silicone. Once the silicone has set, check the mould for gaps before you mix any resin, then blow or vacuum out all dust from the mould and the timber just before you pour.
Finish slightly above the timber
Plane both slabs to the same thickness, and bring the final layer of resin up just above the timber surface. When you flatten the top, the resin and timber then come out level, with no low spots in the river.
Pour thinner when it's hot
Resin builds more heat in a hot workshop, so in summer use thinner layers, toward the 15 mm end of the range, and keep the mould out of direct sun.
Keep the colour the same in every layer
If you're tinting the river and pouring in layers, measure the same amount of pigment per litre for every batch, and write it down, so each layer matches.
Start small
If it's your first deep pour, try a serving board or small river with the 750 mL Beginner Kit before a full dining table. You'll learn how the resin flows and cures on a small piece first.
If You're Unsure, Pour in Layers
If you're not sure how deep your river is, how much heat a pour will build, or whether one pour is too much, always split it into multiple pours. Keep each layer within 15–50 mm and pour the next one when the last is touch dry, at about 2 days. Several thinner layers take longer, but they're the safer way to a clear, crack-free river.
Common River Table Mistakes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Cracking or overheating | Table top (coating) resin used for the river | Use a deep pour resin such as River Resin for the river, and keep coating resin to 1–2 mm coats |
| Too much heat in a deep river | Poured thicker than 50 mm in one go | Pour 15–50 mm per layer and add layers in the touch-dry window |
| Bubbles along the timber edges | Air rising out of the wood | Seal the live edges with Solid Cast 606 before the main pour |
| Thick or cloudy resin | Resin and hardener are too cold | Warm the bottles in hot water, cool to room temperature, then mix |
| Soft or sticky patches | Wrong ratio, poor mixing or a cold room | Measure 2:1 by volume, scrape the container while mixing, and cure at 25 °C |
| Layers not bonding | Next layer not poured in the touch-dry window | Pour each new layer while the last is touch dry, at about 2 days. If you miss the window, lightly sand the cured layer and remove all dust before the next pour |
| Resin leaking out | Gaps in the mould | Seal every seam and check the mould before mixing |
For more help, see how to fix bubbles in epoxy resin and why epoxy resin won't cure.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best epoxy for a river table?
Use a deep pour epoxy made for thick pours, such as River Resin Deep Cast Epoxy. It pours 15–50 mm per layer with about 2 hours of working time at 25 °C. Don't use table top or coating resin for the river, as it is made for 1–2 mm coats.
Can I use table top epoxy for a river table?
Not for the river itself. Table top coating resin is made for thin coats and can crack or overheat if it's poured deep. Pour the river with deep pour resin, then use table top resin as a final coat over the whole table if you want a glossy finish.
How thick should an epoxy river table pour be?
Pour River Resin 15–50 mm per layer. For a deeper river, pour in layers, adding each one when the last is touch dry, at about 2 days. If you're unsure, always use multiple pours.
How much epoxy do I need for a river table?
Multiply the river's length × average width × depth in centimetres and divide by 1,000 to get litres. A river 180 cm long, 15 cm wide and 4 cm deep needs about 10.8 litres, so a 15L kit. Allow a little extra for edges and absorption.
How long does a river table take to cure?
At a constant 25 °C, River Resin is touch dry in about 2 days. Allow a further 2 days before sanding, so a single-pour river is ready to sand in about 4 days. Every extra layer adds time, because each new layer goes on in the touch-dry window of the one before.
How do I stop bubbles in a river table?
Most bubbles come from air rising out of the timber. Brush a liberal coat of Solid Cast 606 over the live edges and let it cure for 24 to 48 hours before the main pour. Also mix at a slow drill speed, and pour from a few centimetres above the channel.
Can I colour the resin in a river table?
Yes. River Resin can be tinted for a blue water effect. Use epoxy pigment paste at no more than 5% of the mix, or mica powder.
Can I put hot things on a river table?
Once cured, River Resin is heat resistant up to 80 °C. Use a trivet or board under hot pots, pans and dishes, which can be hotter than that.
A good river table comes down to three things: the right deep pour resin, a well-sealed mould and patience while each layer cures.
Ready to pour your river?
River Resin Deep Cast Epoxy kits, from a 750 mL beginner kit to 150 L.
